Did you know that we have already been in Southern Africa for almost 3 weeks? I’m still catching up on tales from India that are almost two months old! I will return to those stories, but am anxious to skip ahead and fill you in on a very special stop we had on our way to Africa. This was not a planned destination, but rather a fortuitous opportunity that landed in our laps. Several months ago, we were searching for the best tickets out of India to South Africa. There were no affordable non-stop options, and it was important to me to keep our flying time down and find a route that was as direct as possible. We did basic searches online and were only coming up with routes via the middle east (Abu Dhabi or Dubai) or through Eastern Africa (Nairobi or Addis Ababa). Neither of these seemed particularly appealing, as the only stop that was interesting to us was Ethiopia, and that would require $100 visas per person. Thanks to our old coworker and friend, we were reminded of the possibility of routes via the Indian Ocean. Specifically, Air Seychelles operates a flight from Bombay to Mahe to Johannesburg, on a couple days of the week. We couldn’t get it to price with the stopover at all on the airlines website, but were able to find fares for this route on EBooker’s website (a UK company who showed the identical flights under Etihad, a codeshare partner of Air Seychelles). This oneway ticket only cost $300 per person, with a free stopover in the Seychelles!
Elephants and Onward
February 9, 2016Our main reason for visiting Wayanad was to see Asian elephants in the wild. We chose Sultan Bathery as our base, in order to plan a quick safari to the local forests. After searching for tours on TripAdvisor, I discovered a guide, Sabu, who was highly recommended for his customization of treks, village tours and animal safaris, to your interests. With less than 24 hours notice, he was able to fit us in and take us on an all-day excursion to explore the local area. We had to hire both his guide services, as well as a jeep driver to take us to the various destinations. Our day started with a drive along the edges of some local game parks in the hopes we might spot some elephants along the periphery, without having to pay any entrance fees. We spotted plenty of deer, but no trunks, so a reserve visit seemed inevitable.
Making Magic in Munnar
January 30, 2016After getting our fill of the Kerala coastline, and the sticky heat that comes with it, we were ready for some mountains and a cooler climate. As we drove East out of Alleppey on our first tourist class bus, I reflected on the people I had watched. One of my favorite sights, unfortunately never photographed, was of the young girls in uniform heading to and from school. Almost every young lady wore their hair in two braids, parted down the middle, black and shiny, straight or curly, with two matching ribbons tied into two big bows at the top of the braid, near the crown. The color of these ribbons would compliment the school uniform, whether they be sky blue, or marigold yellow. It was a look from the past, old-fashioned and innocent, making me wish for a similar style amongst little girls in the US. Another look that made me smile, was that of the bandy-legged Southern Indian man. Often darkly tanned, and barefoot, with a short skirt, exposing the full length of his skinny legs. This “skirt” was a sari-like plain cotton fabric, folded high, or tucked between his legs like a loose diaper. It looked very comfortable in the humid heat, although I always feared that the wrapping would come undone, leaving the poor man completely exposed.
From the Beaches to the Backwaters
January 23, 2016I have had romantic visions of the Kerala backwaters for over a decade. Ever since I first learned that you could rent a houseboat that looks like a kettuvallam (rice barge) to tour the back rivers in, eating Southern Indian food and sleeping on the water, I have wanted to experience this part of India. However, as most wonderful adventures go, popularity only increases demand, and changes what was once a unique and peaceful journey into a fiercely competitive and touristy trip down water lanes trafficked by hundreds of like boats. We learned that the amount of house boats available to rent had increased substantially in the previous years, with more than a 1000 boats now operating in the region. Despite the fact that there were so many boats vying for your business, the price tag had also increased.
Kovalam vs. Varkala
January 12, 2016Let the battle of the beaches begin! I’m sorry if all these photos of us sweating it up on a lovely South Indian beach bring envy to those of you slugging through a Northern Hemisphere winter. We recognize how fortunate we are to be chasing an endless summer. Our first stop for some restorative Arabian sea breezes brought us to Kovalam, south of Trivandrum. Our bodies were still adjusting to the humidity after a month of dry desert weather in Rajasthan, and getting used to frequent applications of both sunscreen and mosquito repellant. Unfortunately for Dan, what he may have assumed to be a mere physical reaction to the extreme heat, ended up being far worse.
Christmas in Meghalaya
January 8, 2016After Kochi, we visited Kovalam, Varkala, Kollam, Alleppey, Munnar, Athirapally, Wayanad, Mysore, Hampi, and Southern Goa…so much to write about! However, I am going to skip ahead to the near present to tell you about our trip to North East India over the Christmas holidays. This was the one part of our Indian adventure that had a fixed schedule. We had purchased our tickets to fly to Guwahati before we even left the US, as we were joining our good friend, Gavin, on a trip to his parent’s hometown, Shillong. We had been greatly looking forward to our reunion, as well as an introduction to his family and a part of India that is less visited by many travelers to this country.















