Traveling along the South African East Cape, we were in search of locales that would allow us more time in nature, and specifically participating in water-related activities. With a set arrival date planned for Capetown, we felt the crunch of time, and had to be more selective about where we stopped and how we divvied up our time. It might seem like we are planners, but the truth is that we prefer more flexible itineraries that allow us the serendipity to determine what path to take, and how long to stay, as we go. The popular “Garden Route” is a part of South Africa that we could have dedicated MUCH more time to.
From the Wild Coast to Wild Animals
May 3, 2016Sometimes, when I am lacking inspiration, I feel like my posts are just a list of the places we have seen and the things that we have done. By telling stories that are now 2 months stale, I fear that the “feeling” of a place can be easily lost. I’m trying to be more connected to the visceral memories and find those kernels to share, but it’s no easy feat.
After Lesotho, we headed back to the South African beaches, specifically to the town of Cintsa on the Wild Coast. We rented our first tent, because all of the accommodation at the recommended Buccaneers Lodge & Backpackers was already sold out. It rained every night and most of the day, and we were located downhill from the communal bathrooms, which made for a very inconvenient night’s pee. We were also camping below the property’s bar, which meant we were serenaded by thumping dance music and drunken laughter into the wee hours. Needless to say, our stay was not the highlight of our trip. Continue Reading…
Backpacks
April 28, 2016Since my first day traveling abroad and solo through Europe, way back in 1994 (over 20 years ago!), I have used a backpack for all long-term travel. I do love my rolling luggage that fits in an overhead bin for smaller trips, but I can’t bring myself to consider this kind of suitcase for a long-haul international trip. Despite my growing years, I still identify myself as a “Backpacker” – a person who carries all of their necessary worldly items on their shoulders, under the strength of her thighs and walking feet, with arms and hands free for all other negotiations.
Lingering Lesotho
April 26, 2016Lesotho…I find myself reflecting on this country more often than one would think, considering the mere cursory visit we gave it (4 days out of several months in Southern Africa). Here are my quick snapshots of a country surrounded, a much poorer country than the one that encircles it and drinks from its waters. The precious rain that falls on its grassy plains, flows just as quickly to lower land in South Africa via the Drakensberg Plateau, slipping through Lesotho’s fingers, leaving behind a thirsty, poor land. This water shortage is not initially visible, as there are vast green plains receding into a distant horizon of pointed peaks. The scenery speaks of a country that is rich with natural beauty. Jagged mountains loom in the east and rust colored canyons crack open below. Simple shacks belay apparent poverty, but the wealth of beauty, revealed in the landscapes, rivals what is manmade.
Kwazulu-Natal and neighbors
April 19, 2016The day we left Swaziland, we thought we were in for our longest road trip at about 5 hours. I should have guessed that it was only the beginning, as the coming month would see us sashaying across a vast land, ticking off many miles on the road. We reentered South Africa through the Kwazulu-Natal state, which also borders Mozambique. Heading due South, we were excited to be reaching the Indian Ocean, and the famed Elephant coast off of St. Lucia. In order to break up the monotony of our long drive, we took a short diversion to the Hluhluwe-Imfozi Game Reserve for lunch and a safari quickie. Here was yet another benefit to our South African “wild card” – we did not hesitate to check out this park, since it did not cost us an entrance fee to satisfy our curiosity.
Swaziland Surprised Us
April 10, 2016As we crossed the border and began our drive into Swaziland, we were immediately taken with the greenery and the lush valleys backed by impressive mountain ranges. This was not what we expected, an emerald gem that was reminding us of the verdant parts of Hawaii, or the greenest pastoral scenes in Europe. The apparently rich, red soil was checkered with timber forests and pineapple fields. It was a grand landscape of agriculture, sparsely populated.















